Kami Rita Sherpa, who surpassed his own record by climbing the 8,849-metre (29,032-foot) peak for the 29th time earlier this month, has previously stated that he was "just working" and did not intend to set records.

"Kami Rita reached the summit this morning. Now he has made a new record with 30 summits of Everest," Mingma Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks, his expedition organiser, told AFP.

However, the celebrations were overshadowed by the confirmed death of a Romanian mountaineer and reports of a missing British climber and Nepali guide, underscoring the inherent risks of sport climbing.

Sherpa first reached the summit of Mount Everest in 1994 while working for a commercial expedition. Since then, he has climbed Everest nearly every year, guiding clients. "I am glad for the record, but records are eventually broken," he told AFP after his 29th climb on 12 May. I am more happy that my climbs help Nepal be recognised in the world."

Last year, Sherpa climbed Everest twice to reclaim his record after another guide, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, matched his number of ascents. He has also conquered other 8,000-metre peaks, including K2 in Pakistan, the world's second-highest mountain. His successful summit coincided with the season's confirmed death toll rising to five. 

A Romanian climber, Gabriel Viorel Tabara, died attempting to scale Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain, according to his expedition organiser. "He was found dead in his tent on Camp Three on Monday morning by his guide," said Mohan Lamsal of Makalu Adventure. "He was found dead in his tent on Camp Three on Monday morning by his guide," said Mohan Lamsal of Makalu Adventure, naming the climber as Gabriel Viorel Tabara.

Everest and Lhotse share the same route until they diverge at 7,200 metres. "We are making efforts to bring his body down," said Mohan Lamsal. Nepal's tourism department reported that a 40-year-old British climber and his 21-year-old Nepali guide have been missing since Tuesday morning while descending from Everest's peak. 

"The climber and his guide slipped and disappeared near the South Summit near Kangshung Face," said Narayan Prasad Khanal, a tourism department official, in a statement on Wednesday. They were last seen at around 8,750 metres high. Khanal added that six experienced mountain guides are currently searching for the pair.