YiLing Song claimed gold in the women’s speed final at the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup at Place du Mont Blanc in Chamonix, France.
That earned the Chinese the upper hand in the battle for the overall title after former joint-leader Anouck Jaubert of France suffered an early exit to Indonesia’s Aries Susanti Rahayu.
Despite low-friction conditions on the wall, world record holder Song blazed through her races.
She claimed her third gold of the season in fortuitous circumstances after Russia’s Elizaveta Ivanova false started in the big final.
In the small final, Poland’s Aleksandra Kałucka and Susanti Rahayu fell simultaneously at the first attempt.
Kałucka took bronze and her second podium finish of the season after another fall from her opponent.
In the men’s big final, Alfian Muhammad of Indonesia clocked 5.674 to defeat China’s Qixin Zhong, who recorded 6.382.
Bronze went to Russian Vladislav Deulin after a fall for Ukraine’s Danyil Boldyrev.
The overall standings continue to be led by Frenchman Bassa Mawem, with Deulin second.
Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic was the winner of the men's lead final, ahead of Germany's Alexander Megos and Frenchman Romain Desgranges.
South Korea's Seo Chae-hyun topped the women's lead final standings.
YueTong Zhang of China was second, with Austria's Jessica Pilz rounding off the podium.